El moviment Slow neix a Roma l’any 1986, i neix per combatre el fast food.
Al nostre país apareix 10 anys més tard i
amb una rebuda molt diferent de l' Italiana.
Per exemple: aquí va ser la moguda d’uns
pocs — la gent ho trobava divertit però no li van donar la confiança que li van
donar els Italians.
El moviment Slow ens diu: “Viure lent per viure millor”
Amb el temps també arriba a la moda i
apareix Slow fashion i, com al cas del
fast food, apareix per combatre el fast fashion.
Les persones comprem a diari mes roba de
la que necessitem i amb això fem que es generi una gran producció a les grans
marques. Així, es generen molts mes residus, ja que les peces que es compren a
un molt baix preu tenen com a desavantatges la seva baixíssima qualitat en les
fibres i per això es llencen molt abans.
QUANTES
PECES DE ROBA ET COMPRES? I CADA QUAN LES LLENCES?
Això, ens ho hauríem de preguntar mes
sovint. Perquè tanta pressa de voler tenir l' última peça de l'aparador a l'armari?
Val la pena seguir en aquest espiral de
consum on la qualitat i les maneres de produir nomes ens deixen temes negatius?
Atesa la quantitat de residus, l’explotació
laboral, l'acceleració de fibres contaminades que també ens contaminen a
nosaltres, Slow fashion busca generar
una consciència: només cal comprar allò que realment necessitem. Cal comprar
productes naturals on no es fan servir pesticides, cal valorar la ma d’obra,
cal comprar en botigues de segona mà, Upcycling
......
Els principis del Slow fashion es basen en donar valor a l’artesà, al productor local
i al treball proper.
Per sort, a la passarel·la ja comencem a
veure dissenys amb roba ètica i dissenyadores com Stella
McCartney,
Ali Hewson, o Katharine Hamnett ja fan moda sostenible.
Una
anècdota: Matilda Lee al seu llibre
Eco Chic ens diu que al Regne Unit a
l’any 2005 es va fer un estudi de compres i es va veure com el consum de texans
era alarmant: cada segon se’n venien 3
pantalons. Aquest llibre també ens fa reflexionar sobre la manera de fer moda
que tenen les grans marques — Fast fashion!! No fan només dues
col·leccions a l’any i poden fer-ne fins a 14 a 15. Amb això podem veure
clarament el poc que els importa el concepte ètic a la producció i al disseny.
THE ‘SLOW’ MOVEMENT AND HOW IT
AFFECTS FASHION
The Slow Movement
was born in Rome in 1986 and was created to combat fast food.
In our country,
however, it appeared 10 years later and was received in a very different way
from Italy.
For example: in
Catalonia, few people were involved; people found it amusing but, unlike the
Italians, did not take it seriously.
The Slow Movement
says: "Live slowly and live better".
The Slow Movement
eventually reached the world of fashion and, just like Slow Food and Fast Food,
was born to combat Fast Fashion.
People buy more
clothes than they need, which generates vast levels of production by the big
brands and much waste. Cheap clothing has the disadvantages of being made out
of low quality fibres and so you have to throw away your clothes much more
quickly.
HOW MANY GARMENTS
DO YOU BUY? AND WHEN DO YOU THROW THEM AWAY?
We should ask ourselves
these two questions more often. Why such a rush to have the latest piece of
clothing in the shop window in your wardrobe?
It is really worth
continuing in this upwards spiral of consumption in which quality and
production methods only lead to negative issues?
In light of the
amount of waste generated, exploitation in the workplace, and the increase in the
use of contaminated fibres (that also contaminate us), Slow fashion seeks to improve
awareness: buy only what you really need, buy natural products in which no
pesticides are used, take into account the labour used to make the garment, buy
in second-hand shops, upcycle, and so forth.
The principles of
slow fashion are based on giving value to the creator, to the local producer
and to locally produced goods.
Luckily, fashion shows
are beginning to see more ethical clothing designs and designers such as Stella
McCartney, Katharine Hamnett and Ali Hewson are now creating sustainable clothing.
An anecdote: Matilda
Lee, the author of the book Eco Chic, reports that in the UK in 2005 a study of
shopping revealed alarming levels of consumption of jeans: every second 3 pairs
of jeans were sold! The book also makes us think about how the giant fashion
brands make their products — Fast fashion!
They don’t have two collections a year but, rather, have up to 14 or 15. This
shows how little they care about ethical concepts and production design.
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